Friday 1st October.
Today was the day we collected our new home for the week to come and I cant tell you how excited we where...However,on the way home, in the rush of the excitement I failed to stop at an amber light (which changed to red before I exited the intersection), later incurring a $350 fine...but we wont go into that. It's our holiday...right?!
Our little bubble home was perfect. We had everything we needed, lots of storage, massive bed, gas stove, pots pans, and even a little sink in the back. But importantly, plenty of room for the beers!
Saturday 2nd Oct.
Up bright and early...well for me anyway.
After making sure we had copious amounts of water and filled to the brim with fuel, we where off... Travelling north away from Adelaide in the direction of Port Augusta (320km), with the aim of reaching Coober Pedy by the evening. The whole day from our Adam Avenue to Coober Pedy was to take, approximately, 9 -10hrs, travelling a whopping 859km. Port Augusta was to be the last major town before hitting the outback.
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| "Crossroads of Australia" and Gateway to the Flinders Ranges, the outback and Spencer Gulf. |
We arrived in Port Augusta to re-fuel, stretch our legs and stock up on snacks...
Leaving Port Augusta we took a right turn onto the Sturt Highway, our last turn for the next 539km. As we continued north we realised we were entering the outback. The earth seemed to get redder, the trees were thinning and we could see for miles. When I say miles, I really mean miles! The view, 360 degrees of "vastness". Your eyes follow the ground until your vision literally gives up from the pressure of focusing too hard...for me anyway.
I really don't think any description I could offer, or photo's I show, will really allow you to understand the outback, without having seen it for your self. Bearing in mind we have only seen a tiny fraction of it ourselves.
I read that to understand what the Australian Outback really is we need to know that Australia is one of the most urbanized countries in the world. The population is concentrated in the cities along the southern and eastern coast, or not far from it. The only other "populated" region is the area around the city of Perth on the southern west coast. And that's it!
The Australian Outback is just about everywhere else... 6.5 million square kilometres of it (or 2.5 million square miles), inhabited by less than 60,000 people...
After......................a lot of desert...................
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| Salt Lakes |
After road, road, astounding landscape and more road we did finally see life! This life was in the shape of a real (living breathing) Dingo! I have to say I was quite impressed with this find and Wolfie's ability of capturing it with he camera....he was driving...
According to our neighbours (Jack and Bev), Bev has never seen a Dingo in the flesh. Now I found this quite astonishing because Jack and Bev have travelled the whole of Australia and I mean all of it!! We hadn't yet done a full day and here we are face to face with a Dingo.....
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| I am sure it was laughing at us?! |
As we neared Coober Pedy the landscape becomes strangely intimidating, even more so the other side of the town. Typical desert scrub, flat and desolate, but on approaching Coober Pedy the road becomes surrounded by hundreds of mounds of earth, varying from a few feet high to the size of a caravan. Coober Pedy is home to serious amounts of opal mines, and the mounds are the dirt from the vertical shafts built in the search for gems: the miners don't fill the holes in because when you're following a seam of opal rich dirt and you dig underneath a filled-in hole, the loose earth will collapse down on top of you. It's a sensible reason, but it makes the environs of Coober Pedy look like the hang out for a large colony of massive desert moles.
The town itself is pretty apocalyptic, which is probably why a lot of Mad Max 3 was filmed here, back in the days when Mel Gibson still pretended to be Australian. The summer heat is so searing and the winter nights are so cold that a large number of houses and hotels are underground, where the temperature is comfortably stable: it's a novel sight and a good excuse for a local tourist industry (along with the opal mines, of course), but overall Coober Pedy is a pretty grim place, arriving just before dark we booked into a caravan park and set up camp in a mini sand storm, lovely.
Sunday 3rd Oct.
When we woke in the morning I discovered marks on every window of our little home. These marks appeared to be the hand-cupped face prints of a (to be polite) scary peeping tom... Although we laugh about it now, it was slightly unnerving... Have any of you seen the out back horror/thriller "Wolf creak"?? Unfortunately I have seen far too many scary films and have a very vivid imagination...needless to say I didn't really want to hang around too long - but then again is it safer away from civilisation????
So after rapidly (me) packing up camp we had a little time for photo's and a visit to an underground hotel museum.
At 1pm we where back on the road with another 488km in front of us to Erldunda, in the northern territory.
As we crossed the South Australia - Northern territory border, as with most borders, there where various signs up. However, the most important sign stating "Dry Zone..Regulations apply"???
Of course we did our research before we left.... 'Dry Zone' what is that? Yes it's the desert, of course it's dry....Hello!!??
If your like us and have/had no idea what that means I'll tell you. Within certain areas of the Northern Territory, there are restrictions on the transportation and consumption of alcohol in public places.
If you live in or visit a prescribed area and:
• consume, possess, supply or transport liquor in a prescribed area, you could face a fine of up
to $1,100 for a first offence or up to $2,200 for a second or subsequent offence.
• are found with 1350 mls or more of pure alcohol in a prescribed area, you could be charged
with supplying liquor and may face a fine of up to $74,800 or up to 18 months imprisonment.
"public drinking restrictions form part of a community Alcohol Management Plan that incorporates alcohol supply, demand and harm reduction measures"......
One small detail....our van was packed to the brim (my idea) with booze....
After driving, in approx 40 degree heat, we arrived at Erldunda road house just before sunset. This was a simple but adequate campsite, with the added bonus of a swimming pool! However after setting up camp etc, it was way too cold for me to swim. Wolfie on the other hand was straight in!
Monday 4th Oct
Up early, shower and off on the last part of our journey to Ayers Rock...
Now I have a little story to tell first. Some of you know my colossal, albeit absurd phobia of spiders (so why did I come to Australia??). I say the word absurd because, even though uncontrollable, I realise it really is!
If I see a spider I stop breathing - I mean it, no breath at all! I can not move or I move too fast and inevitably injure myself during my fight or flight phase.
I can not kill a spider because any hideous accomplice's it has, will inevitably seek me out..the thought of what they might do chills me to the bone and quite frankly makes me want to vomit.
So, in the morning, happy little me skips off to use the showers. There are a few other people using the facilities - and what do you know? No one is using the private shower, complete with chair for cloths, mirror and sink. Perfect.
So humming to myself, I strip off, arrange my excessive amount of toiletries, hang my towel and pleased that I have turned this shabby roofless shower room into a mini spa I pull back the shower curtain.......discovering, to my utter horror, the biggest spider I have ever seen!!
I can't move, I can't scream (never been able to), I cant run because I am 'soooh' naked and oh my god it's looking at me!!!!
I am a big girl now...I can not get Wolfie to save me...I have to do something!
Somewhere from deep inside me I found the courage to grab something, anything, like my bottle of conditioner... You may laugh at me but conditioner is now my saviour. I squirted and squeezed until there was a mound of white gue on the floor, rendering the monster immobile. And then I went in for the kill with the nearest large object available to me....the chair. And, like a crazed killer, I smashed it down over and over until I looked like someone out of a Stephen King film.
Yes, some of you may think poor "big" spider... But I can tell you something. It would have been poor Wolfie, having to put up with stinky me for the rest of the trip if I didn't get my shower!
........So the last 245km flew by in the searing heat and at last our first view of Ayers Rock.
We arrived at the Ayers Rock Resort campsite around lunchtime, set up, book, cold beer and hid from the burning sun.
Just before sunset we followed the crowds of happy campers to the sunset viewing park, hoping to watch the magic of the rock. In all it was a lovely atmosphere, lots of happy people, champagne picnic's & 4x4's all fighting for space....
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| This one is our favourite pic. |
Although the sunset was not the best, clouds etc, the Uluru did not disappoint. The ever changing colours, reds, golds, purples and so many more where fascinating, as if the rock it's self was moving.....truly a magical experience.
Tuesday 5th Oct
Up at 5am for the rush to watch the sunrise and in hope that Wolfie could climb the rock before it got too hot. However, on arrival at the sunrise viewing park the sun decided not to show, instead dark clouds where the only offer.
Now, with regard to the climb Wolfie was so eager to do, I was not. I think I had been a little spooked by the aboriginal prophecy's surrounding the Uluru, probably put there to warn off silly tourists like me...they worked.
What the Aboriginals say;
"What visitors call 'the climb' is of great spiritual significance to us. The climb is not prohibited, but we ask that you will choose to respect our law and culture by not climbing. When you visit the Cultural Centre you will learn more about the significance of Uluru in our culture" .....(and make us spend more $'s)
And of course there is the "Health &Safety" spiel...
"The climb may also be closed with little or no notice:
- HEAT - if the actual temperature reaches 36°C or above
- RAIN - when there is greater than 20% chance of rain within three hours
- RAIN - when there is greater than 20% chance of thunderstorms within three hours
- WIND - if the estimated wind speed at the summit reaches 25 knots or above
- WET - when more than 20% of the rock surface is wet after rain
- CLOUD - when cloud descends below the summit
- RESCUE - during rock rescue operations
- CULTURE - if the traditional owners request closure for cultural reasons, for example during a period of mourning."
So basically any given reason they close the climb... and try as we might, getting up very early every morning to ask, every time the answer was NO! The reason being was the forcast thunder storms.
This made poor Wolfie very unhappy so he decided to hold a 'one man protest'....
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| The only path up- I think it was made for Ewoks. |
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| As you can see it didn't create any interest whatsoever! |
At lunchtime we took a flight in a plane around the rock, not being allowed to fly over as it's sacred..
After determining everyone in the group's (5 of us) weight I got the front seat, next to the lovely pilot and with our matching Raybands we set off:) Ok, so that all sounds cheesy...but he was cute & you girls would have thought the same... Sorry guys:)
I can't tell you how hot it was but sitting in this tiny plane waiting to take off, I can only imagine what it is like for a chicken starting to roast. Rendering us (me) to an unattractive puddle of mess. However, the view was spectacular.....
Back at the campsite, after a walk and a chat to our new (lizard) friend, the plan was to visit the Olgas for sunset, before leaving the resort early the next morning.
As I mentioned earlier the forecast weather was thunder storms and later that day, in the distance the heavens opened. Loving the cooler weather pushed in by the storms, we went in search of Kata Tjuta, formerly calld "the Olgas", is the second major feature and attraction of Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park. (The main one is of course Uluru.) The Olgas consists of 36 steep sided monoliths, which, just like Uluru, look most impressive at sunrise and sunset.
"There used to be twelve different walks here, winding through the valleys and gorges between the rocky domes. Today only two remain. The others have been closed, in part to protect the fragile environment, but mostly to allow the Aboriginal owners of the land to conduct their ancient ceremonies.
The area is not only closed for white people, it is also off limits for Aboriginal people who have no business there. Only those who are inducted to the necessary level are allowed to access certain places and only for the required ceremonies or as otherwise specified by the cultural law, Tjukurpa".
The Uluru is immensely impressive to look at, but I have to say, in my opinion seeing Kata Tjuta gave me the most incredible experience out of the two places.
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| When it rains the dark strips turn into white streams - amazing! |
On our way out of the Olgas the heavens opened. Within a few minutes the cloud had descended all around us and we where soaked to the bone - the water was literally running over our boots. Looking back through the rain at the Olgas we witnessed the most astonishing sight, a vision of a million white water falls cascading down, like milk being poured all over. I have never felt so overwhelmed....something we will never forget.
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| Taken from the van... unfortunately the rain had stopped. |
Wednesday 5th Oct.
Goodbye Ayers Rock...
Leaving the national park we took a small (by Australian standards) detour off the Sturt highway (approx 300km return drive), to Watarrka National Park to see Kings Canyon.
Kings Canyon is the biggest attraction inside Watarrka National Park, so much so that, like us, few tourists know the real name of the park, often calling it Kings Canyon National Park.
The park protects the rugged and scenic George Gill Range.This range contains a massive gorge, with red sandstone walls that rise over 100 metres to a plateau of rocky domes and other sandstone formations.
http://www.outback-australia-travel-secrets.com/kings-canyon.html
Unfortunately we only had a couple of hours here, more time was needed to experience the immense beauty, especially after all the desert, but we did manage to see a little.
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| Budgerigar's everywhere! |
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| A welcome stream.... |
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| There is always one! |
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| Egyptian Pigeon. |
After leaving Kings Canyon we drove as far as we could in the daylight, driving at night can be dangerous in the outback, due to the road trains and wandering wild animals - thus we were not insured to drive at night.
It had been raining on and off all day and as the sun started to set, yet again the heavens opened, causing major floods. By this point we where approx 40km's from Erldunda road house...we decided to keep going in the dark, I was driving with Wolfie as co-driver on the look out for wild animals. I can tell you that driving through floods was not a great experience, visability was minimal and whenever a road train flew past it felt like we were going to be washed away...we made it safely, slept over night.............
Thursday 6th Oct
.....................and continued on the next day, the same route home (Sturt highway), past Coober Pedy, covering a whopping 780kms to Lake Gairdina National Park. Managing to set up camp, just as the sun was setting.
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| Lights of the Road train. |
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| Our first sighting of wild Emu's. |
Friday 7th Oct
Now, after all that desert I was craving the ocean like you would not believe. We were on time, with regards to arriving home and by lunchtime we reached Port Augusta. So we decided to take the coast road home, taking us from Port Augusta 150km to Port Broughton, our next campsite. Port Broughton is situated at the top of the York Peninsula surrounded by idyllic countryside, perfect to end our road trip. After a little bartering with the site owner, we got ourselves a pitch on the edge on the water.
A lovely relaxing evening by the water.......breakfast with the Galah's, then home to Adam Avenue
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| (Flaming) Galah! |
